i began by considering the different things im interested in and what potential topics i could focus my research on. i started by drawing a spider diagram to understand the topics and sub topics i enjoy and have an interest in.
from this i went on to consider a few topics i had a particular interest in. i decided that because i had done past projects on a few other topics i was most interested in i would base my project around rock climbing and focus on bouldering.
we were asked to choose out of 5 directions for our project/research
i decided to look at 'An introduction to bouldering (free rock climbing)'
Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that is performed without the use of ropes or harnesses. While it can be done without any equipment whatsoever, most climbers use climbing shoes to help secure footholds, chalk to keep their hands dry, and bouldering mats to prevent injuries from falls. Unlike free solo climbing, which is also performed without ropes, bouldering problems (the path that a climber takes in order to complete the climb) are usually less than 20 feet tall. Artificial climbing walls allow boulderers to train indoors in areas without natural boulders. Bouldering competitions, which employ a variety of formats, take place in both indoor and outdoor settings.
Rock climbing first emerged as a sport in the mid-1800s. Early records describe climbers engaging in what is now referred to as bouldering, not as a separate discipline, but as a form of training for larger ascents. In the early 20th century, the Fontainebleau area of France established itself as a prominent climbing area, where some of the first dedicatedbleausards (or "boulderers") emerged.
In the 1960s, the sport was pushed forward by American mathematician John Gill, who contributed several important innovations.Gill's previous athletic pursuit was gymnastics, a sport which had an established scale of difficulty for particular movements and body positions.
As with other forms of climbing, bouldering technique is largely centered around proper footwork. Leg muscles are significantly stronger than arm muscles; as such, proficient boulderers use their arms primarily to maintain balance and body positioning, relying on their legs to push them up the boulder.[22]:p. 52 Boulderers also keep their arms straight whenever possible, allowing their bones to support their body weight rather than their muscles.[26]:p. 60–61
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bouldering
i went on to gather some information on the history of the sport. i started by looking at eric gills website (a famous climber prolific to the early stages and global development of bouldering.
Some think it began with Chris Sharma in the early 1990s. Others believe it started with me in the 1950s. Still others think that Pierre Allain and his 'Bleausards initiated the sport in the 1930s. In fact, climbers were scrambling about on boulders in Fontainebleau as early as 1874.
A more serious version of early bouldering - and one not restricted to a particular area, such as Fontainebleau - appears to have started in Great Britain in the 1880s, championed by Oscar Eckenstein - a short but sturdily built gymnastic climber capable of one-arm pull-ups.
In Scotland - during the 1880s - Fraser Campbell and others engaged in a light-hearted training activity they described as "boulder climbing".
Pierre Allain and his crew popularized climbing on the giant boulders in France'sFontainebleau in the 1930s and, later, after the War, in the1940s
http://www128.pair.com/r3d4k7/Bouldering_History1.0.html
further dates from page 6:
http://www128.pair.com/r3d4k7/Bouldering_History2.0.html
In France, the first documented attempts at Bouldering may have started in the 1870's. In 1874, Ernest Cezanne created the Club Alpin Francais in Paris.
In 1935, a man named Pierre Allain invented the soft soled Climbing Shoe for serious Rock Climbing Fountainebleau Bouldering never caught the attention of most climbers until the beginning of the 1970's. In the early 1980's, the turning point of Bouldering as we know it began to take place and quickly adopted an athlete's logic of climbing. In 1947, Fred Bernik designed the first formal Bouldering circuits at Fountainebleau.
John Gill is considered as the father of Bouldering. He was probably the first person to boulder in the south, bouldering on Stone Moutain in Georgia in 1954, only a year after he had started climbing. In the 1960's, he went Bouldering at Shades Mountain in Alabama and Desoto State Park. He later tried Bouldering in other areas like southern Illinois, western Kentucky, and Missouri. While attending college at Georgia Tech., he tried gymnastics. He got the idea of the use of chalk in climbing from the rings he did as gymnastics.
http://www.abc-of-rockclimbing.com/info/bouldering-history.asp
usually above crash mats, and without the hindrance of equipment normally associated with climbing. This allows the participant to fully focus on the techniques and movements without risk of injury and makes it easier for those wishing to climb to gain a safe entry into the activity.
At this time, Sheffield was considered to be the climbing capital of the UK. All the hardest routes and boulder problems were in close proximity and the strongest climbers lived there. If you wanted to climb hard, you moved to ‘Sheff’. Legend has it that Gav and Bungle, two of Sheffield’s finest denizens, once applied to be on ‘Gladiators’. The selection process included an 800-metre run that had to be completed in a certain time followed by twenty pull-ups. The story goes Gav and Bungle failed because they couldn’t decide which arm to use for the pull-ups.
These days days bouldering has developed into a sport in its own right – with its own grading system and etiquette. There are climbers and there are boulderers though of course there is massive crossover
http://project-o.co.uk/articles/boulder-vs-rock/
Finding the perfect rock climbing shoe for your specific foot type and size is extremely important. When you go shopping for them be aware of the fact that they are supposed to be a snug fit. They should fit well enough that you don’t have much space between your toes and the tip of the shoe, but enough room to move your foot in all possible directions. This is because sometimes you will literally be balancing your entire bodyweight on a single toe as you reach for the next hold.
The only other piece of gear you need to get started as a rock climber is some chalk for your hands. As you climb, your hands will start to perspire and you’ll easily lose your grip. To combat this, rock climbers carry chalk around their waist
i thoiught that it was important to gather some research into the different techniques and methods of climbing and in particular bouldering.
this website offered a quality explanation with visual reference to the basic techniques that climbers use in order to tackle different sorts of problems.
The Sacred Triangle
In the late 1980’s, Marcus Floyd began to develop the ‘Climber’s Sacred Triangle’ as a study of climbing movement to help teach his friends and students to focus on rock climbing fundamentals.
The Climber’s Sacred Triangle was designed as an evaluative aspect of a climber’s training program. While it is simply the study of climbing movements and is based on four basic fundamental rules, when placed into practice can empower even a beginner to feel more confident and graceful the first night at the gym or day out on the rock. (1) The first climbing rule is that all body positions used for implementing climbing technique falls into one of two categories, an ‘open hip stance’ or a ‘closed hip stance.’ An open hip stance is when a climber’s hips are parallel with the climbing surface and considered in the frontal position. The closed hip stance is when the hips are perpendicular to the climbing surface and generally one foot utilizes the outside edge of the front of the shoe. (2) The second climbing rule is to balance with opposite limbs to avoid the barn-door effect. Make sure your feet are wider than the width of your shoulders, the wider the better. If your handhold falls on a line that extends perpendicularly from a point that is equal distance from either foothold, you have a stable triangular pattern of hand-to-foot placement, no matter which hand is on the hold. The center-line of the body automatically offsets the weight of the opposing limb when balancing with opposites. This position is considered a stable triangle and considered a ‘rest position.’ This brings us to our next rule. (3) The third climbing rule is when a climber’s triangle points upward then the climber is in a rest positio when the climber adheres to following rule number two. There for, (4) the fourth climbing rule is when a climber’s triangle is upside-down a climber is in ‘physical transition,’ (transition position).
Laybacking or Layback
The layback is a technique used regularly, quite strenuous but effective too.
It is basically opposing pressure from hands to feet your skeleton does most of the work as you transfer your body weight down to your feet from your hands.
A single maneuver like this is called a layawayBelow you see the young climber laybacking a small overhang. An adult would easily overcome this overhang with reach - but the child had to bridge/stem up then climb the crack by turning it into a layback maneuver.
Overhangs - How to climb overhangs
Climbing your first overhang is often the beginners nightmare problem.
How can I possibly climb an overhang?
Yes, some overhangs can be very tricky but there are plenty with good holds too, confidence and speed will get you over the problem usually.
The trick is to keep your arms straight and roll the body through the shoulder towards holds that are out of reach.You may bend your arms but keep this to a minimum to conserve energy. Feet may be used - usually the toe or heel (most climbing shoes have this covered wih rubber) by hooking a hold above you you can pull or hang from a leg as required, this is known as a toe or Heel hook
Tip: If possible when resting on steep ground do not hang out too far as this will hinder you when you wish to continue upwards and you have to pull yourself in before moving up.
How can I possibly climb an overhang?
Yes, some overhangs can be very tricky but there are plenty with good holds too, confidence and speed will get you over the problem usually.
The trick is to keep your arms straight and roll the body through the shoulder towards holds that are out of reach.You may bend your arms but keep this to a minimum to conserve energy. Feet may be used - usually the toe or heel (most climbing shoes have this covered wih rubber) by hooking a hold above you you can pull or hang from a leg as required, this is known as a toe or Heel hook
Tip: If possible when resting on steep ground do not hang out too far as this will hinder you when you wish to continue upwards and you have to pull yourself in before moving up.
Climbing cracks Another beginners nightmare, you can pull down on good incut holds, but how do you climb a vertical crack?
First of all you have several ways to climb a crack depending on it's width.
If its under 10cm wide you will Jam the crack by sliding in your hands and camming your fingers into the crack. You may also wish to jam your feet into the crack for purchase.
Be warned, if you have a good foot jam and your hands come off first it may get nasty!
As the cracks get larger they require a different approach.
You may wish to jam the whole of your hand sideways in the crack or maybe even slide your arm in up to elbow the full shoulder in some cases.
You may turn your boot sideways on so your toes and heels oppose.
There are no rules here, but if it's painful, you are probably doing it wrong!
You can also utilise the layback technique on cracks. If there is more than one crack you could bridge them.
You may wish to jam the whole of your hand sideways in the crack or maybe even slide your arm in up to elbow the full shoulder in some cases.
You may turn your boot sideways on so your toes and heels oppose.
There are no rules here, but if it's painful, you are probably doing it wrong!
You can also utilise the layback technique on cracks. If there is more than one crack you could bridge them.
Bridging technique or Stemming.
Your legs are strong - so use them to your advantage (often overlooked by beginners)
You can climb corners and large cracks by bridging the gap with your feet, pushing with your hands and feet across the sides. Any holds you can use will make this feel more secure as it relies on opposing pressure and friction off the rock. Note the climber on the left, bridging up a series of small overhangs, by climbing in this manner she overcomes the problem easily.
If you start to use your back against a wall and push with your hands and feet it becomes a Chimneying maneuver.
Many climbs rely upon using a variety of these techniques together.
Friction or Smearing
Smearing is a technique where a climber will hopefully have both grippy but smooth rock (eg: granite) and will use the ball of the foot to press down on the surface of the rock allowing upward progress.
Different boots have different smearing properties and this is down to the rubber compound used on the sole.
Different boots have different smearing properties and this is down to the rubber compound used on the sole.
It is possible to smear on rock and hardly use your upper body or hands as all the work is done by the feet and legs.
Tip: Ensure your boots are clean before you climb as smearing relies on clean contact. I often wipe my boots on my trouser legs on route to rid the rubber of grit and rubbish picked up.
Dyno's or Dynamic Manoeuvre
A dyno is where a climber will hang off a good hold (usually) and rock up and down before leaping upwards to catch a hold above. Ideally the climber grabs the target hold at the highpoint of his jump. A climber may lose contact with the climb during a dynamic move - always gets a round of applause in competitions.
Stretching is an often-overlooked aspect of the pre-climbing routine. The following stretches pull double duty; not only do they lengthen your muscles, tendons, and ligaments for the approach—therefore preventing injury—but they also provide more mobility and flexibility on the wall so you can climb smarter and stronger.
1) Footwork drills
One of the best times to work on your footwork is during your first warm-up climbs. On easy ground you can focus on making each placement perfectly and this will set the standard for the rest of the session. It will also help to reduce the boredom of your warm-up by keeping you mentally challenged. Slow each foot placement down and pause over the hold for a split second while you decide on optimum positioning. Place the foot silently, and without scuffing the wall above the foothold. Try not to re-adjust your feet or to test the footholds excessively. Work on doing this more quickly and intuitively as the warm-up progresses.
2) Basic body position for steep walls
The movement pattern for overhangs is entirely different to the movement pattern for vertical walls. The way we learn to climb on slabs and vertical walls is with our hips parallel, as if climbing a ladder, but this causes all sorts of problems on the steep stuff. With your hips parallel, your arms will be forced to pull extra-hard and you will constantly feel out of balance. The answer is to twist into the wall with your hips and straighten your arms. The way to do this is by stepping over the ‘centre line’ and using footholds on the left with the outside edge of your right foot (or vice versa). You can then brace your spare foot against the wall to form a stable tripod. Each reach can then be assisted by the rotational motion of your body, rather than doing it all with the arms. It is a myth that you need strong arms for overhanging walls – if you get this movement sequence right, you may barely need to bend your arms at all.
3) Flagging
If you are unable to position yourself using your outside edge on an overhanging wall and find yourself off-balance with your hips parallel, then you have two alternatives to correct yourself: first simply to swap feet and get onto the outside edge of your other foot; but swapping feet can feel precarious and you may find that you need to swap them back again as soon as you’ve made the reach. A much slicker option is simply to ‘flag’ your trailing leg into a balance position, to make the reach and then to come out of the flag. You can either do this by bringing the trailing leg behind the active leg (if the foothold is high) or by bringing it inside the active leg (if the foothold is low – see photo. Note that the ‘inside flag’ is a more efficient option as it enables you to twist in to the wall.
4) Slapping on steep walls
Speed and timing are the two most important variables for dynamic moves. The faster you pull-up, the more momentum you will be able to capture at the ‘deadpoint’ (this is the split-second weightless moment at the top end of a dyno). Thrust upwards with your legs and hips rather than just pulling with your arms. You must then co-ordinate the upward reach precisely with the dead-point – if you are too slow then all momentum will be lost. Another common mistake is to lose pressure on the footholds at the moment when you move your hand, especially when the footholds are poor. Keep thinking feet as you slap and keep your body taught to take the strain. On steep walls you must ‘pull’ with your feet rather than pushing. Curved ‘toe-down’ shoes help you to use your foot like a claw. If you are having difficulty sticking the target hold then try ‘cheating’ into position and hanging it, to gain confidence and learn the position. Your hips should finish vertically below the hold to minimize outward swing. If you really are a ‘static’ climber then try double-handed dynos on a gently overhanging wall with your feet on good footholds to teach yourself the timing sequence.
5) Cutting loose
It’s always best to avoid cutting loose on overhangs but sometimes you have no choice. The secret is to take one leg off before the other to reduce the severity of the swing. Arch your back as you swing, bend one of your legs up behind you and keep the other in front. Tense your back muscles as hard as you can to kill the swing. Try to use the momentum on the reverse side of the swing to help you lift your feet back up. Aim to re-locate them first time, because another attempt will seriously drain your energy.
6) Using volumes
Volumes are an important new addition to modern climbing walls, but many climbers find their first encounter to be a pretty intimidating affair. Volumes can make the wall feel so much steeper and they are often covered in nasty screw-ons or slopers. But they can be tamed with the following tips: Step well back first to look for hidden holds over the top, peer round the sides for side-pulls and underneath to check for under-cuts. Look for chalk-lines or ‘tick-marks’, but if these aren’t evident then take a reference point so that you can locate the hold from below when it is out of site. When planning your moves, think 3-dimensionally and consider palming and bridging. Only hang the flat sloping face of a volume as an absolute last resort, and instead consider cupping the side, pinching them or crimping a screw-on and pinching the bottom (see photo). Where two volumes appear close to each other it may also be possible to jam or knee-bar between them. Avoid getting stretched out as you move up onto a volume and use heel-hooks and toe-hooks to prevent you from swinging off. Where possible, try to get bunched on top and use the easier angled face to fashion a rest.
7) Slopers
Of course it helps to have a vice-like grip to use slopers but technique also plays a huge part. If possible, test the surface of the hold first to feel for the best part. Aim for maximum contact and ‘smear’ your hand into position. The thumb is crucial - try pinching the side or underneath or put three fingers on top and pinch with your little finger on one side. Use the crimp or half-crimp grip if the depth of the sloper is less than your second finger joint, or if it has a slightly in-cut or indented section. Try to keep your wrist as stiff as possible. Keep your centre-of-gravity vertically below the hold in both planes. If you reach for a sloper out to the side then steer your hips towards it before you try to weight it. Always stay as low as possible to the hold. It is usually a bad idea to use two footholds at a similar height, as this will force you too high and out of balance. Instead, take one foot off and flag the spare leg to counterbalance. Keep your body taut and be smooth and stealthy with your movements. And above all else – keep trying. You’ll never master slopers unless you get involved. Happy slapping!
8) Sit-starts
Many climbers find sit-starts to be cramped and strenuous, especially those who are tall or inflexible. Always try to use the outside edge of your foot on the active foothold and start with your hips at 90 degrees to the wall as opposed to sitting in a ‘frog’ position with both knees turned out and your hips parallel. Get your bum in as close to the wall as possible and try to get into a lay-back position to help you gain height if the starting handholds allow it. Rock back and try to generate momentum to assist the upward thrust. A particularly cunning technique is to roll one knee over onto the floor and to push with this. It’s generally accepted that you’re not allowed to push off the floor with one hand but nobody said anything about knees!
9) Route reading
The ability to plan a route from the ground is an essential sport climbing skill. Time invested on the floor is time and energy saved on the climb, and yet so many climbers waste the opportunity. Your ability to route-read will improve massively with practice. The best approach is to break route reading down into stages which can be regarded as specific to the grade of route you wish to try. For example, an easy route may only require a quick Level 1 route read, whereas your hardest onsight deserves a full Level 3 analysis.
Level 1: Identify all holds.
• View the route from a variety of angles and from far back.
• Look for widely placed footholds.
Level 2: Hand sequence.
• Move around and view from different angles to see the good parts of each hold.
• Pay particular attention to the top.
• Look for chalk prints to tell hold orientation (but beware false prints!).
• Rubbered holds with no chalk are almost certainly footholds.
• Register different options for confusing sequences and decide when you get there.
• Look out for rests such as bridge positions, heel-hooks, kneebars, etc.
• Plan which holds you’re likely to clip from.
• Go through it once slowly and then (crucial) go through it again.
Level 3: Hand + foot sequence.
• As above, but go over the route a third time to plan a foot sequence. This should only be attempted by more experienced climbers.
Always try to go back over the route again after you’ve climbed it, to see which moves you guessed right or wrong.
. Mental skills - reading and reviewing the sequence
The first step for newcomers is to resist the temptation to jump straight on and work it out as you climb. There simply isn't enough spare strength or skin on your fingertips for this and it always pays to have a good look at the holds first and try to plan a sequence. Most intermediates will do this by habit, but it's amazing how few will attempt to link a foot sequence in with a hand sequence. The reason most don't bother is because they usually guess wrong, but it's amazing how your ability to predict the sequence in fine detail will improve with practice. Don't get tunnel vision once you start working the problem and remember to consider other options when you're resting between attempts. You may have found the heel-hook round the arête but would a toe-hook work better? How about flagging to save time instead of swapping feet and changing to an outside edge? It may be a sloper but have you tried crimping it? You may be on the biggest smear, but is it in the best position? These are just some of the classic review questions from an endless.
2. Tactics - resting, brushing and skin care
The answer to how long you should rest between attempts at a boulder problem is longer than your natural instinct dictates. Don't let frustration get the better of you and resist the temptation to keep jumping back on and thrashing. If you're bouldering in a small group and things are getting competitive then one of the best ways to bag the problem first is simply to miss your turn when it comes round! A good rule of thumb for hard projects is to rest a minute for each move that you manage to link. For long bouldering sessions you should take ten or fifteen minute breaks every half hour or so. Most boulderers know the importance of brushing the holds but few use a swat rag. These are great for removing excess dust and cooling the holds down to improve conditions. Be meticulous when you clean your feet and keep tipping up the crash pad regularly so that it stays spotless. Keep a constant eye on your skin and be disciplined enough to call time before you rip the flapper. Use beeswax and vitamin E based creams such as Climb On bars between sessions.
3. Variety - different holds, moves and angles
When you're training and when you're at the crag, the best way to prolong bouldering activity at a high level is to switch between different styles of problem. A simple example is to do slabs in order to rest from overhangs, but a more subtle one is to switch from a crimpy problem to a slopey one, or from a static 'locky' problem to a dyno. Not only will this help prevent premature burn-out but it will ensure that you develop versatile technique and that all the necessary moves and muscles are trained. The other obvious point is to boulder both indoors and outdoors and to climb on a mix of different rock types.
4. Training - specific bouldering for strength / power
A classic mistake is to think that the steepest angle possible is best for strength training. The optimum angle is the steepest possible angle on which you can use finger holds. These don't have to be tiny – they can be medium sized and slopey or rounded but they mustn't be jugs. If you're swinging around on jugs then you won't be working your fingers and finger strength should always be the greatest priority. It is also best to use the smallest possible footholds to work body tension and footwork accuracy. Stronger climbers may wish to try footless bouldering to increase the intensity, but don't go over-board with this because the crucial body tension element is lost. Another worthwhile training tweak is to try 'system' style boulder problems where you set a rule such as cutting loose and replacing your feet between each move or holding a lock-off and 'hovering' over the next hold for a few seconds.
i then decided to look at some visual research in the form of videos explaining different bouldering techniques.
this video of the 2013 bouldering world cup showcases the best contenders from each country and how they tackle some of the most difficult artificual problems available.
this video provides a look at how different techniques are applied in the bouldering room.
these videos give a really good explanatory insight into how one can better understand how to use their body type in different ways to best suit the climb.
"The strongest climbers aren’t always the happiest or nicest to be around; neither are some of them coming from the purest motivation. Climbing another V17 is not going to save the world! This activity of 'rock climbing' is merely one of many ways to exist, pass the time, and evolve and grow from one moment to the next. That’s all."
“We search out the most perfect pieces of rock. It’s so amazing that these formations are so perfect for climbing on. It’s almost as if they were created for climbing. You’re taking these random rock formations and you’re bringing to it this interaction. It transforms it from being this random rock into almost this piece of art. It’s almost like a sculpture or something. Just by finding the handholds, finding that line up the rock. Every climb is different, has its own unique set of movements and body positions. Climbing and my appreciation for nature are totally intertwined.” Origin.
“Climbing is my lifelong journey. And in the same way you go running and you have days where you really feel in tune, you have some days where you don’t feel that good. It’s this never-ending process. Accepting that and enjoying that for what it is, that’s really where the life of climbing is.” Outside On-Line
“Climbing is this long term, lifelong journey. It’s really important to just take your time with it and keep it fun. I’ve seen a lot of people burn out because it starts becoming this job for them. It stops being fun. For me, it’s been really important to keep it enjoyable. Listen to your motivation.” Origin.
i then did some investigation into the different grading systems applied to bouldering problems and how they differ around the world.
For those that don’t know, bouldering involves climbing routes made up of a series of technical moves which are near to the ground and hence don’t require protection from a rope. Protection is normally provided by a partner spotting the climber or by the placing of protective pads under the route to soften any fall.
The first grading system is the V Grade which was developed by John Sherman or Verm as he is known to his friends. Increasingly popular worldwide, it was initially felt that the grading system was lacking in the lower grades, hence the inclusion of the V0-, V0 & V0+.
The concern over the coverage of the lower grades in the V grading system, led to the development of the Peak Bouldering grades. Although still popular, the inclusion of V0- & V0+ in the V Grades and its increasing worldwide popularity means that the days for this grading system are probably numbered.
Finally there’s the Font grade which was developed in the Fontainebleau area of France, an area popular with boulders from both sides of the channel. Although at first glance it would appear to be the same as the French sports grade (see rock grades explained for more information), this is not the case and is in fact completely different. To add to the confusion, it has now become the norm to give traverses a French sport grade as they can be quite long and committing. Hence a bouldering problem with a traverse that is graded 6c could be given a traversing grade of 7b - so beware!
Japan also has developed its own grading system widely used by the local climbers of the country, adopting the Dankyu (Dan and Kyu) system which resembles that of martial arts. It is also called the Soroban system, meaning grading system used in Japanese abacus schools. Like in martial arts, 1-Kyu is the hardest Kyu and it gets easier as the number ascends. 1-Kyu is the baseline grade represented by Captain Ahab in Ogawayama or Ninjagaeshi in Mitake, and is roughly equal to 6c+/7a in Fontainebleau grades or V5/V6 in Hueco scale. Kyu is open-ended on the easier side but practically the easiest problem could be around 10-Kyu. Dan starts from where kyu ends, Shodan (or 1-Dan) being the next grade higher than 1-Kyu, making it about 7a+/7b in Fontainebleau, V7/V8 in Hueco. Climbing a shodan problem means the climber has reached the advanced level. Dan gets harder as the number ascends, and is open-ended on the harder side. The Wheel of Life (V16/8C+) is graded at 6-Dan. A comparison[8] between Fontainebleau and Dankyu bouldering grades suggests that 6 kyu is equivalent to 4a/4c Fontainebleau.
from that i went on to do some primary research and went to the local bouldering room - the depot in pudsey.
me, jordan and my friend matty took photos to capture the different moves and examples of positions first hand. although a relativey experienced climber the research has helped me brush up on a lot of theory that i was able to apply better and more compotently when i went to the depot.
these examples show jordan supporting his weight using his legs and by keeping his arms straight is putting less strain on his arm muscles so not to tire himself out when figuring out the next step.
by putting my left leg out i am able to better balance my body and can then stretch further with my right side so that my right arm reaches the above hold.
this is similar to the above theory but by stretching my left leg further out i can rest most of my weight on my right toes and knee and, using my left hand hold to support my movement, can then reach to the right hand hold with more fluidity and without falling off.
by pushing into the wall with my leg and gripping the hold with my hands i can support my weight with less stress on my muscles.
this example shows jordan 'crimping' - using his finger tips to support most of his weight while he repositions his toes on the small holds. by pulling in opposite directions on the holds, as thought trying to pull them apart, he pullshis body towards the wall stablising his weight.
this in action shot shows me bringing my left heel up to the hold in my right hand and hooking the heel to that my weight is held by my right arm and foot and left heel allowing me to grab the higher hold with my right hand.
my trapping the wall between my legs and squeezing my thights inwards i can support most of my weight which takes strain off my arms and allows me to continue upwards.
matty pushes up with his left leg, using his left arm and right leg as support points, so that his reach is fincreased and he can grab the hold with his right hand.
here he stabilises his body with each leg at even points apart and legs bent to take the weight
he can the push his body up and match the top hold with both hands
the next few images show me attempting a problem and the sequence of smoves i take to navigate the route
after this point my arms stopped working and i fell off -.- but the visual explanation of how one can manouvre and position the body to make a route possible (or not as was my case)
this image shows jordan using a hook technique to support his weight round the wall via the front of his right foot. it is suprinsing the ammount of weight your feet, heels, toes, top of feet can take.
i also embarked on an informal interview with an experienced climber called chris who had been climbing at the depot for around 10 years. having spoken to him briefly about various techniques i knew him to say hello to and so asked if he wouldnt mind answering some questions. (some replys are paraphrased due to short hand notes being taken)
me: when did you start climbing?
chris: i started climbing around 1982 after a couple of friends had got into bouldering around sheffield and the peak district.
me: what lead you to an interest in bouldering in particular?
chris: i started outdoor climbing and was intorduced to a number of prolific crags (smaller boulderlike features used for outdoor bouldering) and got really into the low problem climbs and from there just got more and more into the practice.
me: what you get most out of bouldering?
chris: apart from the people i meet and the places i get to go, the main thing i love about bouldering is its calmness. i like sport climbing and leading but theyre often too rushed. i like to take my time with a problem and perfect each challenge to the point where i can go as slow as i want and not struggle. you can achieve this in bouldering.
me: how long do you feel it took to perfect your tecnique?
chris: i dont think anyone ever fully perfects their technique it just gets better and better as their understanding grows. i feel as though after about 5 years i was really comfotable with bouldering and was able to tackle most problems but even in the first couple of years i really progressed qwuickly. nowadays though i see kids as young as 13 doing problems that i still struggle with, so it really depends!
me: why do you think bouldering is such a popular climbing sport nowadays?
chris: i think its partially because there are a lot of indoor bouldering centres around these days and people arent arsed to drive out places to maybe get rained on when they can do it all year round inside. i think its also because more people are recognisisng how fun and benefitial, health wise, it can be. when i was young it was only really kids in scouts or 'aethletic nerds', if there is such a thing?!, who did it but now you see all types of people here (the depot)
me: if you had one sentence to try and encourage kids to climb what would you say?
chris: boys: itll tone your pecks and abs, girls: itll tone your legs and arses - everybody wins!
we ended up going round the deopt with chris trying out different problems and getting tips from him and i really learned a lot from him.
the crit can be seen on my ppp blog.
